Duct Tape Chevron Earrings Tutorial

Hey guys and dolls, for this Tutorial Thursday I will show you how to make these rad Duct Tape Chevron Earrings! The Chevron symbol has become sort of a craze in fashion, so I though, why not make super chic earrings that is inspired by this amazing motif. I have even included a free template you can print, enjoy!

Here's What You'll Need: 

• Chevron Earring Template: http://www.pdfhost.net/index.php?Action=Download&File=4fd6b67de4ed9518f85e19fd379d2927 (Download on Pdf Host)
• Duct Tape
• Scissors
• 22 Jump Rings
• 2 Earring Hooks
• Pliers
• Small Hole Punch
• Optional: Spray Adhesive

Step 1: Cut a 2 pieces of duct tape about the same length and press the sticky sides together. Do this twice for both earrings.

Step 2: Cut all the chevron temple pieces out close to the edge, but not all the way. On the back side of the pieces, spray a small amount of the adhesive and stick to the duct tape. Or just trace the shapes with a pencil. Cut all the pieces out.

Step 3: As shown above, use your small hole punch to strategically place the holes onto the pieces. The inverted V will have 3 holes, 1 on the top and 2 on the bottom. The 2 middle V's will have 4 holes, 2 on each side. And the last V will only have 2 holes, 1 on each side. 

Step 4: Grab your pliers and place your jump rings in the holes as shown above. 1 ring will be placed though the top hook. Then, 1 ring will connect the inverted V and the fist V on each side. 2 rings will connect the first V to the second on each side. Lastly, 2 rings will connect the second V to the last V on each side.

And Your Finished!

Now take this template and use a different medium. Maybe wood, shrink plastic, or even recycled soda cans. Run with your own creative juices!

Sweetheart Bust Loop Tube Top Tutorial

Miss me guys and dolls? I finally got around to finishing this amazing tutorial for you! Summer is around the corner and I thought I would show you how to make your very own sweetheart bust loop tube top with full pattern drafting instructions to accommodate for the warmer weather! These tops are super cute and extremely comfortable! Not to mention, flattering as well ;b! Enjoy!

Here's What You'll Need:

• 5/8" of a yard of 60" wide knit fabric with at least 25% Stretch (collectively, you can do contrast fabrics like me if you choose).  
• Thread
• Sewing machine or Serger
• Dress Pins
• Scissors
• Tape Measure
• Pen
• Pattern Paper
• Ruler

Now Let's Draft Our Pattern:

Step 1: Before we start drafting our pattern, we need to take some measurements!:

• Above Bust to Under Bust: measure the distance, lengthwise, from where you want your top to begin to under your boobies!
• Under Bust: measure right under your boobies!
• Under Bust to Waist: from your side (where a side seam would go) measure the distance from your under bust ( or in other words, under arm) to your waist.
• Waist to Hips: from your side measure the distance from your waist to hips.
• Hip to Hem: from your side, again, measure the distance from your hip to where you roughly want your your top to end. 
• Natural Waist:  measure the smallest part of your torso.
• Hip: measure the largest part of your torso.

Step 2: Grab enough pattern paper to fit your top, lengthwise, and fold it in half.

Step 3: First we are going to draft the front bust piece. Take your bust measurement, minus 1" and divide that number by 4. For example my bust is 41", minus 1" is 40", than dividing it by 4 gives me 10". By taking away the 1" you are allowing negative ease to accommodate the stretch of your fabric. With that number, on the fold of your fabric, draw a straight line. From that original line, using your above bust to under bust measurement, make a mark.

Step 4: Next, take your under bust measurement, minus 1" and divide by 4. Using that number, draw a straight line where you marked. Connect the two lines on the side and add 1/2" on the bottom for seam allowance. This will finish the front bust pattern.

Step 5: Now we are going to draft the front bottom of your top. Again taking your under bust measurement, minus 1" , and dividing by 4, make a straight line from the folded edge. Than, using your under bust to waist measurement, make a mark.

Step 6: Take your waist measurement, minus 1" and divide by 4. Where you made your last mark, use that measurement and draw a straight line. From that line, using your waist to hip measurement, mark.

Step 7: Take your hip measurement, minus 1" and divide by 4. Than, use that measurement to draw a straight line on that last mark. From that line, using your hip to hem measurement, mark.

Step 8: Than with the same measurement of your hip, simply draw another straight line on your last mark. Connect all your lines on the side, making a basic top shape. Freehand it, it shouldn't be too hard! Lastly, add 1" on the bottom for a hem.

Step 9: With your paper still folded, cut your pattern pieces out. Than, unfold, and cut along the fold. Do not throw the extra pieces away, we will use that for the back. With your front pieces finished, label the center front (Where the initial fold was), so you know where to place on the fabric for cutting.

Step 10: Now, with the leftover pieces cut off of the front patterns, we are going to finish up the back pieces.  With your ruler and pen, mark the where the 1/2" seam allowance was placed on the original patterns.

Step 11: Cut off the seam allowance of the bottom piece. Than, line up the edge where the seam allowance line is on the top piece. Tape both pieces together.

Step 12: Label the center back ( again, where the initial fold was), so you know where to place on the fabric for cutting.

Step 13: Next, we draft the top band piece. Using your bust measurement, minus 3" and divide by 2. This will give you the width of your pattern. For the height it will be 3" for a 1" wide band including the 1/2" seam allowance  If you would like a wider band, increase the width accordingly. For example, if you would like a 2" band, the width of your pattern would be 5".

Step 14: The last pattern we will draft is the bust loop. For the height, you will use your above bust to under bust measurement plus 1/2" for seam allowance. for the width, it will be 5" for a 2" wide loop.

Now is it Time for Cutting, Sewing, and Creating!

Step 15: Cut all your top pieces out. You should have 1 front bust, 1 front bottom, 1 back, 1 bust loop, and 2 top band pieces. And remember, the front bust, front bottom, and back are cut on the fold of the fabric where the center front and  center back lines are.

Step 16: With right sides together, pin your front bust piece to your front bottom piece. Also, mark with your pins a 2" gap in the middle. Sew with a 1/2" seam allowance, leaving the 2" hole in the middle, not sewn. Remember, when sewing knits, use a ballpoint needle and a zig-zag stitch.

Step 17: With right sides together, pin the front and back pieces together at the side seams. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew or serge. If you serge first, I always suggest topstitching the seam after for extra stability.

Step 18: Again, right sides together, pin the top bands together at the shortest end. Sew or serge with 1/2" seam allowance.

Step 19: Next, fold the band in half with wrong side together. I suggest taking it to your ironing board and pressing it. Than, pin to to your top, right sides together and matching side seams. Sew or serge with a 1/2" seam allowance, and press.

Step 20: Set your top aside. Grab your loop piece and fold in half width wise with right sides together. Sew or serge with a 1/2" seam allowance. turn right side out, and with the seam in the middle, press.

Step 21: Taking your loop piece, pin one end on the wrong side of the front bust piece, where you left the gap before. With the other end of the loop, sandwich it in between the seam, in the hole. Folding the entire loop in half lengthwise. Sew, the hole closed, through all the thickness, using the same 1/2" seam allowance as before. Serge the seam to finish the edge if you choose.

 Step 22: Lastly, hem the bottom of your top. We drafted 1" for the hem, so press 1/2" on the bottom towards the wrong side of the fabric. Than, turn another 1/2", press, and stitch down.

And Your Finished! 

Now rock out with this amazingly flattering sweetheart tube top in this upcoming Summer weather!

Peter Pan Collar T-Shirt Recon Tutorial

I know it has been a while since I have posted guys and dolls, but Poofhawk is finally back! And today I'm going to show you have to add a cute peter pan collar to refashion an old t-shirt! I think the Peter Pan Collar Tee is so chic and delightful  that I have decided to even share a free pattern so you can make one yourself! Enjoy!

Here's What You'll Need:

• T-Shirt
• 1/4 Yard of Knit Fabric
• Peter Pan Collar Pattern Pieces: 

Page 1:  http://www.pdfhost.net/index.php?Action=Download&File=d822a998fb2c9178efef86daf8147a38

Page 2:http://www.pdfhost.net/index.php?Action=Download&File=921f611ffc67608b94509a2c68532824

(Download both from PDF Host)

• Thread
• Scissors
• Dress Pins
• Tape Measure
• Tape
• Ruler
• Iron
• Ironing Board
• Sewing Machine
• Serger (Optional) 

Step 1: Lay your t-shirt flat inside out and cut off the existing collar as close as you can to the stitching.

Step 2: Fold your t-shirt sideways matching shoulder seams, where you see half the front and half the back. Take your tape measure and measure out the distance where the existing collar was. Write down the number!

Step 3: Print out the Collar pieces and tape together matching the squares. Cut the pattern out.

Step 4: Now when you measured your neckline, if it was 12" then you can skip this step and step 5. But if it didn't, we will need to do a slight alteration to the pattern. First take your ruler and 2" from the center back make a line. Next, cut from that line and also the line where you taped the two pieces together. You should be left with 3 pieces altogether.

Step 5: Now take your original number and subtract it from 12. Then, with take difference, divide that number by 4. For example, let's say your measurement was 14:

14"-12"= 2"

2" divided by 4= 1/4"

Now, if your measurement was smaller than 12, overlap by the number you got in both places. As shown in the first picture. But if it was larger than 12, spread out by the number you got, as shown in the second picture.

Cut your pattern out, and now your ready for step 6!

Step 6: Place the center back of your pattern on the fold of the fabric and cut out 2 pieces.

Step 7: With right sides together, pin both pieces together on the un-notched edge. Serge or stitch with a 5/8" seam allowance.

Step 8: Turn collar right side out and press.

Step 9: With your t-shirt still inside out, pin and mark the center back and the center front. With the right side  of the collar to the wrong side of the t-shirt, match your center back and front. Then, serge or stitch with a 5/8" seam allowance.

Step 10: After you have stitched the collar to the t-shirt, turn right side out. Sandwich the seam allowance in between the right side of the collar and the wrong side of the t-shirt. Press.

Step 11: Lastly, with a zig-zag stitch, topstitch the collar down.

And Your Finished!

Now You Can Show Off Your Adorable New Peter Pan Collar Tee!

Men's T-Shirt to Heavy Metal Halter Dress Tutorial

Sorry this tutorial is SOOO late! I've been a busy bee :) Anyways, I was browsing around a thrift shop the other day and I found this old raggedy KISS t-shirt in a Men's XL. It had holes in it, the fabric was very much worn down and the actual graphic in the front was sideways (which I guess the creators did on purpose). But, than I saw the price tag: $3....I though hmmm, for $3, I really want to make this KISS shirt wearable. Also, during this time, I designed a pattern for a wicked halter, a WEAR if you DARE kind of garment because, it is supposed to be worn without a bra. Even though I know bras are kind of a necessity, I feel sometimes, that they are more like a boobie zoo. Nevertheless, I have decided to share a tutorial on how to make this amazing dress by refashioning a Men's T! Enjoy!

Here's What You'll Need:

• Men's T-Shirt size XL or Higher
• 1 Yard of Stretch Fabric (I used a velvet that stretched) or Scraps Equivalent at Least 4 Pieces 31"x11"
• Sewing Machine or Serger
• Thread
• Hand Needle
• Iron
• Ironing Board
• Pattern Paper
• Ruler
• Pen or Pencil
• Scissors
• Tape Measure

Now Let's Draft Our Pattern!

Step 1: before we start drafting our pattern, we need to take some measurements!:

• Under Bust: measure right under your boobies!
• Under Bust to Waist: from your side (where a side seam would go) measure the distance from your under bust ( or in other words, under arm) to your waist.
• Waist to Hips: from your side measure the distance from your waist to hips.
• Hip to Legs: from your side, again, measure the distance from your hip to where you roughly want your your dress to end. This might change depending on how long the shirt is.
• Natural Waist:  measure the smallest part of your torso.
• Hip: measure the largest part of your torso.
• Legs: measure around your legs where you originally wanted your dress to end.

Step 2: First we are going to draft the top/halter tie piece of the dress. With your ruler, draw a straight 10" line. Then, mark 4" measuring from one side.

Step 3: Where you made your 4" mark, draw a 30" straight line. From each side of you original 10" line, connect them to the middle line, creating a triangle. This finishes the top pattern piece, cut out and set aside.

Step 4: Next cut a piece of pattern paper about 5" longer then the total length of your dress and fold in half.

Step 5: Grab your list of measurements. On the folded edge, draw a straight line that equals 1/4 of your  under bust measurement. For example, my under bust measurement was 38", so I drew a line that was 9 1/2". Then from that initial line, using your under bust to waist measurement, mark.

Step 6: Where you marked, draw a straight line that equals 1/4 of your waist measurement. My waist measurement was 36" so I drew a line that was 9". From your waist measurement line, use your waist to hip measurement and mark.

Step 7: Where you marked, draw a straight line that equals 1/4" of your hip measurement. Again, from that initial line, measure down using your hips to legs measurement and mark.

Step 8: On that last mark, draw a straight line that equals 1/4 of your leg measurement. Then, using all your markings, draw a basic wiggle dress shape. With all your markings this shouldn't be too hard to just freehand.

Step 9: Next, add 1" on the top of your pattern. If you decide not to use the original hem of the shirt, also add 1" to the bottom. But do not add ANY seam allowance to the side seams. We are working with a knit in which will stretch. We want the end result of this dress to hug our curves, so in this pattern, we are using what is called "negative ease".

Step 10: Open up the pattern from that fold and WALLAH! We have our pattern pieces!

Now is it Time for Cutting, Sewing, and Creating!

Step 11: Lay your shirt flat, matching hems, sleeves, and side seams (if your shirt have side seams). Pin your pattern on the shirt, making sure the graphic doesn't go past your 1" hemline on the top. Cut through all the thickness, the front and the back.

Step 12: Next, take your top/halter tie pattern piece and cut out 4 pieces. 2 for the outside and 2 lining pieces. Please note if you are using scraps: there is a reason this pattern piece leans more toward one side than the other! While cutting out make sure that 1 outside/ lining piece leans towards the left, and 1 outside/lining piece leans towards the right. Now you are left with  front and back pieces, 2 outside top pieces and 2 top lining pieces.

Step 13: Now, I deliberately did not use my serger for this project. I want to let you know, that you do not need a serger to sew a knit! If your sewing machine has a zig-zag stitch, all you need is a ballpoint needle and you can sew a knit! Anyways, grab each outside top piece and pin it to it's adjacent lining piece, right sides together. Using 1/2" seam allowance, stitch around the sides, but not the bottom. This will make a tight upside down V on the top, don't worry, that is supposed to be like that!

Step 14: on the top of each piece cut off the excess horizontally. Turn right side out and use a pencil or pen to push the point out. The fabric will bunch up at the top, but that's for the thick, heavy metal look! After that, press the seams with your iron.

Step 15: Next wrong side together, pin the bottom down and with a straight stitch, baste with a 5" stitch length, leaving long thread tails.

Step 16: Using the tread tails, gather the bottom it's width equals about 5" to 6" depending how much boobie coverage you want. 6" for full coverage, but if you want to be a little risque, a 5" width will probably show a little side boob. After your finished gathering, set your top pieces aside.

Step 17: Next grab your front and back pieces and pin them right sides together. With your Zig-Zag stitch, stitch the sides using about 1/2" seam allowance.

Step 18: Now before proceeding, try the bottom half on inside out. If it isn't as snug as you would like, pinch and pin to the fit you desire and sew accordingly. After that, turn right side out and press the seams.

Step 19: Take the bottom of your dress to the ironing board. All the way around the top (front and back) press down 1/2" toward the wrong side of the fabric. Then, fold over 1/2" more creating. a top hem. Take your hand needle and thread, and slipstitch down. Next on the hem, pin each top/halter tie piece to just the front about 2" away from each side seam. Make sure when you are placing them, the triangular piece leans more toward the inside! Pin them down.

Step 20: Topstitch all the way around the under bust to the back area of the dress, stitching the top/halter ties to the front in the process. 

Step 21: Lastly, make 2 equal pleats in the middle area between the top pieces, until it measures about 1". About 1/2" down, stitch the pleats down on the outside of the front. For decorative purposes, I also stitched two vertical lines parallel to the placement of the top pieces, which is optional.

Now if you used the previous hem, your finished!

But if you didn't, just hem it the same way you did the top!