Miss me guys and dolls? I finally got around to finishing this amazing tutorial for you! Summer is around the corner and I thought I would show you how to make your very own sweetheart bust loop tube top with full pattern drafting instructions to accommodate for the warmer weather! These tops are super cute and extremely comfortable! Not to mention, flattering as well ;b! Enjoy!
Here's What You'll Need:
- 5/8" of a yard of 60" wide knit fabric with at least 25% Stretch (collectively, you can do contrast fabrics like me if you choose).
- Thread
- Sewing machine or Serger
- Dress Pins
- Scissors
- Tape Measure
- Pen
- Pattern Paper
- Ruler
Now Let's Draft Our Pattern:
Step 1: Before we start drafting our pattern, we need to take some measurements!:
- Above Bust to Under Bust: measure the distance, lengthwise, from where you want your top to begin to under your boobies!
- Under Bust: measure right under your boobies!
- Under Bust to Waist: from your side (where a side seam would go) measure the distance from your under bust ( or in other words, under arm) to your waist.
- Waist to Hips: from your side measure the distance from your waist to hips.
- Hip to Hem: from your side, again, measure the distance from your hip to where you roughly want your your top to end.
- Natural Waist: measure the smallest part of your torso.
- Hip: measure the largest part of your torso.
Step 2: Grab enough pattern paper to fit your top, lengthwise, and fold it in half.
Step 3: First we are going to draft the front bust piece. Take your bust measurement, minus 1" and divide that number by 4. For example my bust is 41", minus 1" is 40", than dividing it by 4 gives me 10". By taking away the 1" you are allowing negative ease to accommodate the stretch of your fabric. With that number, on the fold of your fabric, draw a straight line. From that original line, using your above bust to under bust measurement, make a mark.
Step 4: Next, take your under bust measurement, minus 1" and divide by 4. Using that number, draw a straight line where you marked. Connect the two lines on the side and add 1/2" on the bottom for seam allowance. This will finish the front bust pattern.
Step 5: Now we are going to draft the front bottom of your top. Again taking your under bust measurement, minus 1" , and dividing by 4, make a straight line from the folded edge. Than, using your under bust to waist measurement, make a mark.
Step 6: Take your waist measurement, minus 1" and divide by 4. Where you made your last mark, use that measurement and draw a straight line. From that line, using your waist to hip measurement, mark.
Step 7: Take your hip measurement, minus 1" and divide by 4. Than, use that measurement to draw a straight line on that last mark. From that line, using your hip to hem measurement, mark.
Step 8: Than with the same measurement of your hip, simply draw another straight line on your last mark. Connect all your lines on the side, making a basic top shape. Freehand it, it shouldn't be too hard! Lastly, add 1" on the bottom for a hem.
Step 9: With your paper still folded, cut your pattern pieces out. Than, unfold, and cut along the fold. Do not throw the extra pieces away, we will use that for the back. With your front pieces finished, label the center front (Where the initial fold was), so you know where to place on the fabric for cutting.
Step 10: Now, with the leftover pieces cut off of the front patterns, we are going to finish up the back pieces. With your ruler and pen, mark the where the 1/2" seam allowance was placed on the original patterns.
Step 11: Cut off the seam allowance of the bottom piece. Than, line up the edge where the seam allowance line is on the top piece. Tape both pieces together.
Step 12: Label the center back ( again, where the initial fold was), so you know where to place on the fabric for cutting.
Step 13: Next, we draft the top band piece. Using your bust measurement, minus 3" and divide by 2. This will give you the width of your pattern. For the height it will be 3" for a 1" wide band including the 1/2" seam allowance If you would like a wider band, increase the width accordingly. For example, if you would like a 2" band, the width of your pattern would be 5".
Step 14: The last pattern we will draft is the bust loop. For the height, you will use your above bust to under bust measurement plus 1/2" for seam allowance. for the width, it will be 5" for a 2" wide loop.
Now is it Time for Cutting, Sewing, and Creating!
Step 15: Cut all your top pieces out. You should have 1 front bust, 1 front bottom, 1 back, 1 bust loop, and 2 top band pieces. And remember, the front bust, front bottom, and back are cut on the fold of the fabric where the center front and center back lines are.
Step 16: With right sides together, pin your front bust piece to your front bottom piece. Also, mark with your pins a 2" gap in the middle. Sew with a 1/2" seam allowance, leaving the 2" hole in the middle, not sewn. Remember, when sewing knits, use a ballpoint needle and a zig-zag stitch.
Step 17: With right sides together, pin the front and back pieces together at the side seams. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew or serge. If you serge first, I always suggest topstitching the seam after for extra stability.
Step 18: Again, right sides together, pin the top bands together at the shortest end. Sew or serge with 1/2" seam allowance.
Step 19: Next, fold the band in half with wrong side together. I suggest taking it to your ironing board and pressing it. Than, pin to to your top, right sides together and matching side seams. Sew or serge with a 1/2" seam allowance, and press.
Step 20: Set your top aside. Grab your loop piece and fold in half width wise with right sides together. Sew or serge with a 1/2" seam allowance. turn right side out, and with the seam in the middle, press.
Step 21: Taking your loop piece, pin one end on the wrong side of the front bust piece, where you left the gap before. With the other end of the loop, sandwich it in between the seam, in the hole. Folding the entire loop in half lengthwise. Sew, the hole closed, through all the thickness, using the same 1/2" seam allowance as before. Serge the seam to finish the edge if you choose.
Step 22: Lastly, hem the bottom of your top. We drafted 1" for the hem, so press 1/2" on the bottom towards the wrong side of the fabric. Than, turn another 1/2", press, and stitch down.
And Your Finished!
Now rock out with this amazingly flattering sweetheart tube top in this upcoming Summer weather!
